Dear Mr. Schnitzler, Sir Kubartz, a few days ago, I reviewed your book "The Big Book of Perfumes . For this really successful reference book I would like to ask some questions.
Helga King : With great interest I read that you, Mr. Schnitzler, perceived as a child your fellow man first on the nose and in the first episode of the eyes and voice. Says something about the scent of individual people, for example, that he comes "moralinsauer"? :-))
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| Frank J. Schnitzler |
Frank J. Schnitzler : Every man has his very own body scent. It depends on processing of the sebaceous glands, from the acid mantle the skin, congenital of the genes and the eating habits of the person. And all this is different in summer than in winter. Also not to be underestimated effect clothing. Synthetic fragrances can affect the body strongly negative. But the biggest impact of the Ph value of any skin, especially when this is in the acidic range. However, it is not so very often.
Helga King : perfumes known to combine with the scent of a human individual. When will the scent on the skin for a personal secret?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubartz : Because the physiology and metabolism of the human per individual are different, every body perfume develop differently over time. Therefore, this fact alone is already reason to speak of such a "personal secret". In addition, there are currently so many perfumes that people can theoretically scenting every day new and different. This increases the mystery around and mystery of a person that sets in with the appearance and demeanor.
Helga King : What difference between Italian of French perfume creations?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubaetz : Former French fragrances were inspired by those grown in the Grasse region of raw materials. With the growing importance of Paris, but this association was weaker. In Italy, however, often still dominated by scents, reminiscent of the landscape and the growing raw materials there: Bergamot example, a citrus originating from Calabria, the oil from the rind of the citrus fruit almost always appears in fragrance creations.
Both countries have long traditions as far as perfumes and differ most from the person or landscapes, the motives for be the creation of fragrances can, and require different Duftakzentuierungen.
Helga King : You write in connection with Etat Libre d'Orange, "Antithéros" that with the scents of this manufacturer not the economy, but the creativity of the artist's fragrance is in foreground. What does this mean and how does this affect the economic success?
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| Dr. Bodo Kubartz |
Frank J. Schnitzler / Bodo Kubartz : The Design bitten by Etat Libre d'Orange by their own species produced. The noses behind the creations were not instructed, the smells particularly friendly or pleasant for the end user to create, they were allowed the freedom to develop as "crooked" or seemingly inappropriate fragrances. The fragrance concepts are often bold, sometimes frivolous and impertinent. Jasmin et Cigarette, "for example is reminiscent of the 30s and movie stars like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich, the then already smoked cigarette: an affront to was the trigger today on the nose by the memory of a cigarette already quite surprised. This freedom to participate by fragrance designer Etienne de Swardt ideas developed and not oriented to the tastes of consumers, makes the brand.
Helga King : What lead you back to Fabergé, "Brut" was iconic in the 1970s, corresponded to the smell of the zeitgeist and if so, how?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubartz : Brut by Fabergé was a sales rocket. This agreed with the fragrance, the name and the bottle. The scent was absolutely new, young persistent and recognizable. That was unthinkable until then for men. For powdery, creamy and spicy, not only before the ladies was reserved. The responsible Managers wanted to make this iconic fragrance still more heavily traded and brought 33 to the breeding market, a slightly different scent in a bottle and cheaper package. And every drug store, etc. offered this fragrance. But the customers were so lost interest in breeding. To 2 weddings is to not dance well.
Helga King : You write that Guerlain is "Mitsouko" held by many connoisseurs as the most impressive perfume that was ever created. Can you please explain briefly why?
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| Frank J. Schnitzler |
Frank J. Schnitzler / Bodo Kubartz : Mitsouko is from 1919 actually then a maximum power of the fragrance involved noses and Jacques Guerlain was. After World War II, people wanted radical changes. In the years before the usual odors were often floral. This woody, slightly musty smell wore women, masculinity in order to audition. They dressed themselves and male, because they often had to take over the job of the men who had fallen. And the name of the desire aroused by the distant, for us at that time only inaccessible, mysterious Japan. Even today we see in women who are exposed to heavy work loads and have to compete in a tough man's world, a fondness for Mitsouko.
Helga King : For you, Guerlain "Shalimar" the quintessence of the 1920s. You write that his aggressive gentleness outrageous and daring was new. How can I imagine a perfume or a woman who is surrounded by aggressive gentleness?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubartz : The olfactory wit and success is often justified by the dose: the oriental fragrance chyprige might give in small doses, a gentle character of the wearer of the fragrance, but as aggressive and "loud" to understand if a few drops too much will be used. The balance is often not easy to find or keep, and thus is a thin ridge.
Helga King : Your comments on Jean Patou "Joy" I was very good. Would be "Joy" is an ideal fragrance for the last year was due to the banking crisis, a welcome counterpoint to the re-depressive mood, was created analogous to the times when it?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubartz : Fragrances usually characterize a particular epoch. Although the success long echoes and the smell of generations can remember is "Joy" olfactory also bound to the 30's and can not be safely repeated in this way. The really nice thing about perfume is that it links them to specific times and events: at that time under the conditions of that time was "Joy" to achieve his appeal and impact, to repeat such successes are rarely strategic. Thus created by the re-smelling perfume after many years of images of the past. Often it is only the memory of a scent or a person who has carried the scent that moves us: the smell of a fragrance repeated after many years of abstinence may be disappointing, because what counts the memory of the former torque (accompanied by the smell) and not the smell is in itself.
Helga King : With great curiosity, I studied the creations of Profumi di Pantelleria, which can be purchased only in a few very good perfume. "Aire" and "Jailia" I find the description of her most interesting. What do the smells of Profumi di Pantelleria, that others do not?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Bodo Kubartz : fragrances tell stories and create images. The brand Profumi di Pantelleria combines scents with the history and the particular geography the southernmost island of Italy. Smell one of the scents and get help with the book and possibly inspire a fragrance consultation: can produce such a smell, a different image? Certainly he can - but links the content of the specific nature of this island with the light, fresh scents into an extraordinary ensemble. The entire construct is then unique and makes sense.
Helga King : What justifies the price of Les Parfums Historiques "George Sand"?
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| Dr. Bodo Kubartz |
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubartz : As described in the book include the previous two fragrances by Les Parfums Historiques Maitre Parfumeur et the French house Gantier. The scents of these rarely available in Germany brand is already very exclusive, yet also are formulated by Les Parfums Historiques addresses of famous historical personalities limited in number and therefore receive a slightly higher, but not as much as some other high price niche perfume brand. So it is a prestige-oriented side project of the little French house.
Helga King : Mir liked that you have abandoned the book on photos of the respective bottles, although I appreciate pretty bottle, but I find that the focus is oriented to the fragrance descriptions, stimulates the imagination of the reader more. What was your motive to do without the presentation of the bottle?
Frank J. Schnitzler / Dr. Bodo Kubartz : In fact, the illustrations by Anja Filler, which was inspired also by bottle, very good. Readers are reminded from time to time directly to certain flasks, both from legal, artistic and argumentative reasons, but we have apart from the impression of product photos. The latter relate to the facts that the authors do not emphasize or even brands of positive evaluation and assess than others in the encyclopedia is about the coverage of the major perfume. A copy of product photos would blur this objectivity. The special feature of the scent and not the brand name was a criterion for the selection of fragrances.
Dear Mr. Schnitzler, dear Dr. Kubartz thank you very much for the very enlightening interview.
your Helga King
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